The Popularization Process

August 18th, 2010

I was really excited when I heard about this month’s Mystery Box ingredient. It’s something that I feel is underrated and unfairly mocked, even by food professionals (such a shame). I think it’s lovely and actually just misunderstood.

White chocolate is a unique ingredient, and while dark and milk chocolate have hordes of rabid fans, you’d hear those same hordes echoing horrible sentiments like “I hate white chocolate” and “white chocolate is gross” or even “white chocolate isn’t REAL chocolate.” Lately I’ve taken up the cause and have been stubbornly defending what I know to be a special, delicious ingredient. And it is TOO real chocolate!

not white...?

Where's the white chocolate?

However, as with many things, sometimes it takes baby steps to get people to like an ingredient that they’ve completely dismissed. That’s why I was so elated when I learned that you could CARAMELIZE white chocolate to make it extra special!

sparkly

But what IS it?

I ended up using white chocolate in the form of a caramelized ganache. Easy to make, easier to eat. Since caramelized white chocolate just screams for salt, I topped each cupcake with a random sprinkling of large crystal sanding sugar and coarse sea salt.

fruit & nuts

What's with the cherries and almonds?

The first time I ever made caramelized white chocolate, I decided that, while it looks like peanut butter, it tastes decidedly more like toasted almonds, if anything. I chose to make an almond flour cake, though not a gluten-free one. I wanted the natural almond flavor more than the density. For that toasted flavor I craved, I toasted the almond flour in the oven before using it, which worked perfectly.

toasty!

Such a warm and inviting looking cupcake.

Instead of my usual filling-in-a-hole-in-the-middle style, I went for a muffin-ier approach in these cupcakes and added fresh chopped cherries to the batter just before baking. Honestly they weren’t my first choice, as much as I love cherry and almond together; I would have preferred apricots. But I just barely missed the end of apricot season by about a week as I waited for the weather to cool down enough for me to turn on the oven, and just went with the cherries from the bodega downstairs. They definitely do the trick, though, adding a sweet, juicy note to the almost-savory cupcakes. And they gave me the inspiration to use these sexy red wrappers I bought recently.

in pieces

Quite elegant, actually.

A few notes about the ganache: while it eventually sets up to the point where it will hold its shape enough to pipe, that takes at least 24 hours in the fridge. Even after that point it’s very soft and melts easily. I prefer to use it as a glaze – you get plenty of the unique caramelized flavor while not overdosing on sticky sweetness.

You may also notice that I used milk as the liquid in the ganache instead of the usual cream. I felt that the white chocolate was fatty enough and any more fat would make it too greasy and slick in the mouth, and I think that was the right choice, considering how buttery-moist this cake recipe is.

cupcaaaaake

Half sweet, half savory, totally awesome.

Toasted White Chocolate Cherry-Almond Cupcakes

First, Make the Ganache:

  1. 200 g chopped white chocolate, divided
  2. 75 g milk

Caramelize half of the white chocolate in a shallow baking dish or sheet pan set in an oven at 250F. Stir every ten minutes and bake until the chocolate is a deep peanut butter color and fragrantly caramelized (don’t worry if it looks grainy, that’s normal). Allow to cool, then transfer to a double boiler over simmering water. Add the rest of the white chocolate and melt both together completely. Meanwhile, heat the milk in the microwave until it’s steaming hot (less than 30 seconds). Remove the melted chocolate from over the simmering water and gently stir in the hot milk until it is completely combined and emulsified. Chill in the refrigerator, stirring once every hour or so, until it is thick, spreadable and no longer runny.

Then, Make the Cakes:

  1. 68 g almond flour
  2. 4 oz butter
  3. 4 oz sugar
  4. 2 eggs
  5. 1/4 tsp vanilla
  6. 46 g AP flour
  7. 1/2 tsp baking powder
  8. Pinch salt
  9. 1/3 cup chopped fresh cherries (from about 8 cherries)

Preheat the oven to 325F. Spread the almond flour out on a small baking sheet (I put mine in a pie tin so I wouldn’t accidentally sweep any away when I was stirring it) and toast, stirring every 2 minutes or so, until it’s fragrant and moderately browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

In a stand mixer or with a hand mixer, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Slowly beat in the eggs and vanilla, scraping down the bowl between additions. Sift together the dry ingredients and, with the mixer off, add all but about 1 Tbsp at once, then mix slowly until the dry is just incorporated. Scrape down the bowl, then toss the chopped cherries with the leftover 1 Tbsp of dry mixture. Gently fold the cherries into the batter. Bake in lined muffin tins for about 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cakes comes out clean. Cool completely before frosting.

To Assemble:

  1. Cupcakes
  2. Ganache
  3. Sanding sugar
  4. Coarse sea salt

Use a small spatula or butter knife to smoothly spread a layer of ganache on each cupcake. Sprinkle lightly with both sugar and salt. Keep refrigerated (the ganache will set up fully once refrigerated overnight).

Makes 8 cupcakes with some ganache left over.

The winner of August’s Mystery Box Cupcake Challenge will receive prizes from:

Thank you to all our prize sponsors!

Uncommonly Awesome

August 14th, 2010

Well well well. Guess what this month’s Cupcake Hero theme is. Could it be…my recently admitted least favorite berry? Yes, yes it could. But guess what. I remembered a totally awesome uncommon flavor combination that I really enjoy and was able to translate it well into a fittingly assembled cupcake.

Can you guess what it is?

pink & brown

A definite favorite color combination of mine.

You’d probably guess that’s chocolate cake, but you’d be wrong. There’s not a bit of chocolate anywhere in that cupcake. Think fragrant, roasted, strong, caffeinated…

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Rethinking a Least Favorite

August 11th, 2010

Recently I thought to myself, while building an apricot-raspberry tart at work, that raspberries were my least favorite berries. Strawberries are sweet and seductive, blueberries (wild ones, anyway) are tiny and tart, blackberries are big and inky and juicy. But raspberries? Really not my thing, unless of course you count one of my favorite summer breakfasts of oatmeal with raspberries, peaches and honey.

berry time!

Hooray for berries!

However, there are exceptions to every rule, and sometimes even a least favorite something has its place. One good place to stick your raspberries is in this awesome ice cream.

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More Cupcakes!!

July 18th, 2010

I was sad when it was announced that Iron Cupcake: Earth was no more. It was a significant factor in my getting seriously interested in pastry, leading me to experiment with recipes and learn how to make a real buttercream. It was on hiatus for a while as its fate was being determined, and I really missed the challenge and fun of making creative cupcakes at home.

an unassuming peek of orange

Like a tasty flower.

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You Tart!

July 8th, 2010

Oh hey. It’s been like a month. I promised things were going to change, didn’t I?

…Well, they’re not. At least not in the way I promised. See, I just don’t have the energy, or honestly, the interest to be as hardcore into blogging as I was a year ago. Priorities change. So instead of stressing myself out over (and just plain forgetting) all the neato stuff I was going to do (which other bloggers are doing better anyway) I decided to think about what it was that I missed about blogging. And I do miss a lot! I decided that I missed sharing things when they went 100% right, and that I missed making up cupcakes. The latter will be addressed in one of the, uh, at least two other entries planned for this month. The former, however, is right below this sentence!

cherries?

Not actually cherries :O

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Fear of Meltage

June 3rd, 2010

Currently, I’m sitting here in a pool of sweat, consuming as much icy deliciousness as I can. Sorbet, iced tea, iced coffee, you know. What’s that you say? It’s hot where you are, too? And you’re afraid that the ice cream you want so badly to cool you off will melt on the trip home?

scoopity

Quite elegant.

Well, if you’re like me and are lucky enough to have a store right downstairs that sells frozen passion fruit pulp, you can rush down and get all the ingredients to make this passion fruit ice cream within a few minutes, churn it and be enjoying a flavorful frozen treat in an hour or two. It’s an interesting recipe in that it uses the whole egg as opposed to just the yolks – I think it makes the texture a bit fluffier. I changed it up a little by using half-and-half, which also lightened the recipe somewhat. It’s incredibly simple and something I will be making again, though quite possibly with cacao nibs in it next time. Yum!

Have a little more time on your hands and a hankering for something classic? Want something to do idly while watching a TV show? Then maybe this other recipe can help you out…

OMG COOKIE DOUGH

Bet you never thought of making THIS at home.

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For Your Health!

May 26th, 2010

This is going to be a rather unusual post, one of those rare, non-sugary things that I come up with every once in a great while. Not only that, but it’s flat-out healthy, and came together out of a particularly successful spring trip to the Greenmarket.

berries & whatnot

Ooh, springy!

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Belated But Delicious

May 18th, 2010

Though I’m a lot busier than I used to be, I still happily take special requests from friends. A couple months ago an old friend told me she wanted Margarita cookies for her birthday in May. So I made some!

zesty!

It's like a one-cookie party!

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An Idea to Chew On

May 13th, 2010

I’d had a really yummy idea swimming around in my brain for a while, and like all swimmy ideas it changed and evolved over time, even getting so far as to be hypothetically written out in my notebook, along with recipes for accompanying elements. Also like many swimmy ideas, it sat fairly dormant until I came across something that caused a final change, very different to what I had been previously imagining.

cubes n stuff

It looks so exotic!

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Daring Bakers April 2010: Steamed Pudding

April 27th, 2010

The April 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Esther of The Lilac Kitchen. She challenged everyone to make a traditional British pudding using, if possible, a very traditional British ingredient: suet.

Golden, pretty and rhubarby!

Golden, pretty and rhubarby!

I wasn’t terribly excited about this challenge at first, and didn’t bother with the whole suet thing, choosing instead to substitute butter (of course). But once I got the idea to use rhubarb, just about the only local-ish source of pastry inspiration that’s in season at the moment, I started to get a little more interested in it. And in spite of the tempting steamed rhubarb pie concept, I decided to go with a much easier sponge pudding.

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